Double Hood, Double Fun
Friends, I'm so stinkin' excited about this hoodie! Making a super comfy sweatshirt from the Rival Dress pattern from George and Ginger has been on my to do list for months. And making a double hooded sweatshirt has been on my list for just as long. So when Kim from Love Adore Knit Fabrics sent me this awesome French Terry earlier this week, I knew it was time to put it all together.
The Rival Dress released this past fall, as part of the G&G Fancy Front Collection. This blue one with the cowl? I wore it all. The. Time. I practically lived in it all fall long. The cowl is gigantic (which I love), and I had used a nice, heavy, unknown material that basically made this sweet dress into the comfy sweatshirt you long to wear. And the red plaid one? That's double brushed poly, with faux leather for the sides! I get compliments on this one whenever I wear it!
For my second hood, I used the Howl (hood-slash-cowl, get it?) of the Women's Roller Coaster Tee from Duck Butt Designs The WRTC has been one of my FAVORITE sweatshirt patterns, largely because of the Howl. This was one my firsts, from the Nala French Terry from Sincerely Rylee. (Thanks for putting up with all the crappy old photos, haha!)
Now, back to the Rival. I did try a sweatshirt version once this winter. But my material was not nice at all. It SEEMED nice at first, but it didn't end up washing well, and just turned into a scratchy mess. Plus, I didn't have enough to do long sleeves. Again, I used the faux leather at the sides.
Now, here's where we get to the good stuff. This French Terry. It's ah-maz-ing. For real. I would not lie to you when it comes to fabric. Some custom FT is really scratchy, or else way too thin. This. This is a PERFECT midweight, and so soft! By midweight I mean no drape like Kim's spring weight line of FT (which I did love for cocoon cardigans and dolmans, but wouldn't be right for a sweatshirt), but also not crazy thick and heavy like a hockey sweatshirt. I mean the PERFECT weight.
And here in Wisconsin, it's always hoodie weather.
So, first up, to shorten the Rival Dress. I'm 5'4". So I cut G&G patterns on the short line (lots of her patterns have this, but not all). But to turn this into a shirt, I took five inches off the bottom of all my pieces. Next time, I'd do six. If you're using the pocket piece (I didn't), remember to fold it in half, and cut off the length from the bottom of the fold.
You'll want to cut your own band though, don't use the pattern piece (if you do, it will be too small. Your hips are wider than your legs!). I just made the base of my shirt like normal, and then cut my band pieces so that I knew they'd be the right size. You can even do 100% of the bottom, but I prefer just slightly smaller than the bottom.
Now it's time for the fun part: the hoods! The floral hood is the hood that comes with the Rival pattern. I used green brushed poly to line it. The only modification I made to this hood was to lengthen the part that overlaps in the front, so that I could have a little bit bigger of a crossover.
Next, I modified the Howl from the Duck Butt Design pattern. Now, the Howl is a major fabric hog, because it's big, and you cut both the main piece and the lining on the fold, so you only have two pieces to put together (as opposed to the Rival hood for example, which you cut mirror images of each side of the hood, so you end up with four pieces to put together . . . this is a fabric saver because you can squeak each piece out where ever you can). Soooo, to save fabric, my lining piece is usually cut as mirrored images instead of on the fold ;) I used the Love Adore cream cotton spandex for my cowl hood (they also have a coral and a black to coordinate). The key to mashing two hoods together is making sure they are the same width at the neck. The Howl is designed for a slightly larger neck opening, so I did make that part smaller. I also made the cowl part shorter than the original pattern piece (personal preference).
I put each hood together as per each pattern's instructions. I added grommets to my howl hood for a drawstring. Most RTW double hooded sweatshirts I've seen have the drawstring on the inside hood. Don't mind the wet spots on my howl . . . Roman pricked himself while I was constructing it, and bled on it, the poor kid. It's tough being the son of a maker.
Once each hood is constructed, place the inner hood inside the outer hood, just as it'll look when it's sewn on. You can baste the two hoods together.
Or, you can do what I did and clip the heck out of it. (Side plug for off-brand wonderclips because they are the best modern sewing invention of all time).
Clip your sweatshirt at center back and center front, then clip the hood piece on, right side of hood to right side of sweatshirt, matching the centers. Sew it all together, making sure you catch all the layers. Everything should fit perfectly, no stretching needed.
It's hard to see on the big picture, but I top stitched side panels.
Check out that double hood!
I really didn't know how to situate the two hoods, haha. Next time, I'm going to make the outer hood a little bigger and the inner hood a touch smaller. That Howl is just so BIG! Good thing that fabric was light weight!
New favorite hoodie. Hands down.
I'll be wearing it all summer long, camping and bonfiring <3